THE DIFFERENCE - PART ONE

In this segment of BLKAVEBLOG we are going to have a chat about the importance / difference of using salon products in your hair over the alternative supermarket equivalent. In PART ONE we will be covering the BOX DYES. This is always a subject, we sometimes like to hide from the truth. Considering we are using chemicals, without the required qualification in hairdressing, it is a real health and safety factor. 

I used to always question why, when i first started my apprenticeship, i wasn't allowed to jump in and pop a colour on? It looks easy enough? I must admit, even with a hairdresser for a mother, i still didn't know anything about colour. All i saw was her mix a tube of colour with a lotion and apply it with a brush (my friends however thought differently, i was a pro in their eyes haha). Looks easy enough? I have also dabbled in box colour from time to time, as a teenager ... because i knew better of course!

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This is because, I feel we just don't know any better. It's just like buying our eggs and have never been shown the difference between cage eggs and free range. We are here for you at BLKAVE! We understand that sometimes you are desperate and broke, but there is always a way.... always an alternate. I mean we don't want to start right back at square one due to fried hair or permanent noir locks that have seen better days.

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The first and most obvious question we ask ourselves is " What is the difference?" Firstly we need to consider, if you can get a chemical cheaper than what your hairdresser can, as a professional, what are you ACTUALLY putting on your head?

Unfortunately when it comes to these products, one size doesn't fit all. Usually for a hairdresser, they have a well formulated mixture of peroxide and colour that is suitable for your hair and consider all the factors like porosity, strength, length, base shade, natural shade and desired shade. We could choose to use a 10 vol lotion on one person and need to use 30 vol on another. The same goes for the box colour. Your friend may wear the creamy blonde perfectly from box one,  but it could turn orange on you! mmmmm morange hair .. love it! That $8 box is now looking more like a $400 fix up..

When choosing the colour that is perfect for you, your colourist will take into account these following factors:

Skin Tone, Porosity, Underlying Pigment, Previous Colour and % of Grey.

When it comes to box colour, there isn't a whole lot of difference between semi, demi and permanent colours. They say it will wash out in 10 washes........ but will it?? The only allowance for this would be a temporary colour. These colours just sit on the outside cuticle of your hair and depending on how light your hair is, it will only stain it.

When it comes to scalp bleaches and platinum blondes, application is essential. Over-laping of your colour may result in banding and more importantly BREAKAGE (yes i wrote that in bold, no one wants chewing gum hair.. it actually goes chewy). In this case if it comes as a bottle applicator.... don't do it! A brush and bowl application is the best way. 

There is a HUGE misconception when it come to colour, " Does colour damage my hair?".

When companies put their box colour on the market with a celebrity to endorse it ... the best they are doing is brainwashing everyone. I mean come on!!! There is no way J-Lo is sitting in her bathroom doing a D.I.Y. Bronde!! Clever advertising though.. It even had me thinking i could even do my hair at home ... no thanks, no need for a blue back and bathroom. The reason your hair is feeling like straw, is because you are moving further and further up the porosity scale. This means the damage of your hair is moving up and up to eventual chewing gum stage.

Microscopic view of broken hair strand.

Microscopic view of broken hair strand.

Unfortunately for a colourist, when it comes to fixing this "beautiful" box colour, is the predictability of your hair, or lack of. We do wish however we did have magic wand, that would be amazing!! It is going to be a process, that will take a few sessions with your hairdresser. There could be so many different chemicals and pigments hiding in your hair strand and at different lengths. If you have made the mistake, don't be embarrassed however, we do love a challenge. Just be sure to be patient and be willing to upgrade your haircare routine. 

The skill of a great colourist, is that they can get you to your dream colour. They know when to push your hair and when they need to give it a break. Remember your hair, skin and nails are all made up of the same things. Your damaged hair is like your skin getting sunburn and nails after acrylics . They all take time to heal, but done the right way, you will never regret taking the time and getting to know your hairdresser along the way. We are actually quite cool!! 


BA xx





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