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BLKAVE WINTER MAKEUP

Unfortunately, it's that time of the year, when we have to accept our new found paleness. That is unless: A - you are one of the lucky ones spending summer in Europe or B - you actually have time to fake tan. Like the majority of us, I am C - Pale and cold. 

BLKAVE is here to help you update your makeup bag this winter. With everything feeling dry and/or numb, it is time to change up your daily routine and start a new trend of 'Winter Glow'.

Firstly we are going to take you to the 'DARK SIDE'. It has been years since i have heard the word 'GOTH', but i am happy that this look has been updated to just a deep lip, rather than all black everythaaaang. That's right ladies, it has been a trend that has been circulating this season and it is certainly here to stay. The key here is not about the strong lip, but how to do the rest of your makeup, to ensure you don't try and bring back those unfortunate times of the 90's.

KEY LIP COLOURS - Oxblood, Burgandy, Black Cherry.

WEAR WITH - 

 CURTIS COLLECTION MINERAL ILLUMINATING HIGHLIGHTER PEN

CURTIS COLLECTION MINERAL ILLUMINATING HIGHLIGHTER PEN

Ensuring that all dark under eye areas are concealed and highlighted. Remember this is a dark pigment lip that we are embracing. In doing so, if we have any other areas on our face that are a dark cool tone (like under eye depth or pigmentation), it will instantly draw attention to it. Keeping to the trend of the 'effortless' and 'natural' makeup, this light weight concealer ensures that there is no caking, on the sensitive eye area.

 CURTIS COLLECTION BROW SETTING GEL

CURTIS COLLECTION BROW SETTING GEL

This season is about embracing your natural brows (within reason, maybe still wax that mono..) With this strong lip, keeping your brows soft and feathered is the way to go. If you are lacking hair in the brow department, pair with a brow pencil. Brush those brows up to the sky and you have given your face a brow lift.

Complement your deep lip with soft and dewy skin. This is essential !! During winter skin can begin to look dry and dull. It's like the sun goes behind the clouds for a couple of weeks and I go from a fresh summer bronzed glow to pale, dehydrated and chapped. Fun fun. 

 CURTIS COLLECTION RADIANT GLOW ILLUMINATOR

CURTIS COLLECTION RADIANT GLOW ILLUMINATOR

 CURTIS COLLECTION HYDRA PRIMER

CURTIS COLLECTION HYDRA PRIMER

Mix your illuminator with your foundation to give life to your skin and ensure that you prime with a hydrating primer. This will ensure that your foundation glides evenly over your face rather that attaching itself to your dry areas. Using the illuminator on its own is a great way to highlight cheekbones and avoiding heavy contouring.

So now you know the trend and how to wear it, keep it fresh and dewy. Remember to choose either eyes or lips. Such a versatile look from office chic to saturday night chic. Just add lashes after 5pm and complete the look with a glass of champagne.

BA xx

 

How to : Blondes

We all want that perfect blonde... whether we want icy white or soft honey tones. For me i will only be blonde in my dreams and the day that raging morange comes in, i would be so vogue! I have come to accept that I will never be a blonde, but thats ok. The thing that really gets to me though, is fried blonde. Hair that has been bleached right up until the point of no return..... Chewing gum and brassy (hair actually feels like chewing gum, no lies). You can feel cheated when you leave the hairdressers looking amazing and shiny but hair is left brassy and dry in about a week. 

BLKAVE is here to share our Blonde Secrets...

Invest in a BLONDE SHAMPOO - This will help to maintain your toner and prevent your hair from going brassy. NOTE- they will only work on counteracting the yellow in your hair. If you are throwing orange, you will need a stronger form of toning. Ask your hairdresser, if they offer toning services in the salon. This is a great way to keep your blonde looking on fleek, without having a lightening service every time. You will be surprised at how effective they are.... and you can get your hair styled too!

 If you're blonde and this isn't in your shower, you're missing out.. BIG TIME!

If you're blonde and this isn't in your shower, you're missing out.. BIG TIME!

TREATMENT - beauty from the inside out. After stripping colour and moisture from the hair, the likelihood of your hair feeling like straw, is very likely. After your blonding session in the salon, your hair has now become much like a sieve. Think of your hair like a peanut M&M... The peanut being your cortex, chocolate being the moisture and the shell being our cuticle of the hair. Without the cortex (peanut) of the hair being in tact, there is nothing for the moisture (chocolate) to hold on to, so the cuticle (shell) is unable to close. This leaves the hair dry and unable to hold onto colour as your cuticle is left open and exposed. So when choosing your home haircare, you need to target the concern first, so it will take time. Opting for a strengthening and repairing range is essential, you have to target from the inside out.

 SACHAJUAN Intensive Repair range strengthens hair while helping to retain your hair's natural moisture.

SACHAJUAN Intensive Repair range strengthens hair while helping to retain your hair's natural moisture.

BLONDPRO - These days as hairdressers, we have science on our side. If your hairdresser offers you a bond strengthening option with your lightening service, take it. Being blonde is an investment. With new technology these days, we are able to now lighten with the confidence that the hair will maintain its integrity.

DRY SHAMPOO - This will be your best friend. Anything to stop you from washing your hair too much, will keep your blonde vibrant. Another alternative for those who just can't resist putting their hair under, if your hair isn't dirty, try a hair cleansing cream. It takes a little to get used to as it doesn't foam, but is less abrasive on your hair. We like to compare it to your skincare routine, if your skin is sensitive, you would only use an exfoliant once a week and a soft cleanser daily. This is like your hair. After lightening your hair has become sensitive, alternating with a cleansing cream, would give your hair a break from every day shampooing. 

 Hair Cleansing Cream is for those of us who just can't resist washing our hair every day.

Hair Cleansing Cream is for those of us who just can't resist washing our hair every day.

HEAT STYLING - Gurrrrrrrrl, turn that heat down!! Always use a heat protectant and take your time with heat styling. Your hairdresser may not have caused too much damage, but an iron at 230 degrees, is sure to fry what is left. A leave in treatment with heat protectant is your best option. It will hydrate and smooth those fluffs down too!

 Yes its smells like coconut and will change your life!!

Yes its smells like coconut and will change your life!!

OIL UP - Gone are the days of heavy oils that sit on the cuticle of the hair. With the right hair diagnosis, your hairdresser can prescribe an intensive hair oil, as a form of extra moisture and treatment for the hair. Feeding your hair is essential.

TRUST YOUR HAIRDRESSER. Remember our main concern at the end of the day is to never compromise the integrity of your hair when lightening. In the long run you will never regret doing it the right way and if you NEED to be blonde because you have a special occasion coming up this weekend, opt for a wig... They're so on trend anyway!

BA xx

 

Your Scalp and Cooler Weather

During this time of the year it seems that we can no longer hide from our skin and haircare routines and just blame everything on the humidity. For those of us that suffer from a dry scalp it can be an uncomfortable and itchy way to enter into winter. We are forever bathing our body's in heavy coconut creams and body butters and more often than not, we forget our scalp. BLKAVE is here to tell you, it may not be dandruff that you are experiencing, but rather a dehydrated scalp.

 

The key is to find out the difference between dandruff and a dry scalp. Dehydration of your scalp can feel tight and a little itchy and often results in small white flakes on your shoulders (fantastic when you are pairing it with a black outfit!). If these symptoms are not excessive, it is important to not self diagnose yourself as having dandruff or eczema, as the treatment is very different.

 

It feels as though we give our body's a little shock at this time of year. We go from humidity and cold showers to hot showers and frosty mornings, over night! We need to remember our skin is an organ too, so this shock is what causes it to "Freak out". It leaves us with the questions of "how often are you washing you hair?" and "what is your haircare routine at home?" Did you know that you don't have to shampoo your hair every time you wash it? Conditioner has a small amount of cleansing ability, so if you can't resist putting your head under the warm water to wake you up, just use a little conditioner. This will help your scalp to maintain its natural oils and moisture. At BLKAVE we recommend ELEVEN 'I want body VOLUME Conditioner', a light weight conditioner that will help close down your cuticle, without the weight.

 

You may be able to get away with a supermarket alliterative during summer, but unfortunately, winter is when you can really see the lack of 'shampoo' that is really in the bottle. High sulfate haircare products will not be your friend during winter (you should never had been friends anyway..). Quality home haircare is now affordable for everyone, you just need to talk to your hairdresser and never be afraid to tell them you are on a budget and don't feel like 2 minute noodles for dinner tonight. BLKAVE recommends ELEVEN ‘HYDRATE my hair Shampoo’ and for those with a severally dry scalp Sachajuan ‘Scalp Shampoo’, both of which are free of sulfates and parabens. Just remember when choosing home haircare, Shampoo is for your scalp and Conditioner is for your ends, so mix and match.

 

Tips and Tricks:

  • Before washing your hair, use a boar bristle brush to stimulate scalp before washing. This will help to distribute oils and help to release any build up of dry skin.
  • Have a colder shower. I understand its cold, but having a boiling hot shower does no good for your skin, hair or scalp.
  • Coconut oil - paired with a hydrating shampoo and conditioner, it is a really effective and natural way to moisturise your hair and scalp. Apply directly to scalp and ends, place over a shower cap and chill out for a minimum of 45mins. 
  • Sachjuan OVERNIGHT HAIR REPAIR - for those who are time poor, where your hair is not only dry, but damaged. Put in your hair and scalp before bed, sleep in it and then wash it out in the morning… as easy as that!
  • Sachajuan HAIR CLEANSING CREAM - Not only is this amazing for your scalp, it is just as equally amazing for your hair. Unlike other shampoos, the cleaning cream does not emulsify. Takes a little to get used too, but if you have hair that tends to go fluffy and feels dry all the time, it will be life changing.

 

We hope this has help you combat the changes with your hair and scalp this winter. Remember to keep hydrated and drink plenty of water. 

 

BA xx

 

 

THE DIFFERENCE - PART ONE

In this segment of BLKAVEBLOG we are going to have a chat about the importance / difference of using salon products in your hair over the alternative supermarket equivalent. In PART ONE we will be covering the BOX DYES. This is always a subject, we sometimes like to hide from the truth. Considering we are using chemicals, without the required qualification in hairdressing, it is a real health and safety factor. 

I used to always question why, when i first started my apprenticeship, i wasn't allowed to jump in and pop a colour on? It looks easy enough? I must admit, even with a hairdresser for a mother, i still didn't know anything about colour. All i saw was her mix a tube of colour with a lotion and apply it with a brush (my friends however thought differently, i was a pro in their eyes haha). Looks easy enough? I have also dabbled in box colour from time to time, as a teenager ... because i knew better of course!

Screen Shot 2016-04-05 at 10.25.44 pm.png

This is because, I feel we just don't know any better. It's just like buying our eggs and have never been shown the difference between cage eggs and free range. We are here for you at BLKAVE! We understand that sometimes you are desperate and broke, but there is always a way.... always an alternate. I mean we don't want to start right back at square one due to fried hair or permanent noir locks that have seen better days.

Screen Shot 2016-04-05 at 10.37.53 pm.png

The first and most obvious question we ask ourselves is " What is the difference?" Firstly we need to consider, if you can get a chemical cheaper than what your hairdresser can, as a professional, what are you ACTUALLY putting on your head?

Unfortunately when it comes to these products, one size doesn't fit all. Usually for a hairdresser, they have a well formulated mixture of peroxide and colour that is suitable for your hair and consider all the factors like porosity, strength, length, base shade, natural shade and desired shade. We could choose to use a 10 vol lotion on one person and need to use 30 vol on another. The same goes for the box colour. Your friend may wear the creamy blonde perfectly from box one,  but it could turn orange on you! mmmmm morange hair .. love it! That $8 box is now looking more like a $400 fix up..

When choosing the colour that is perfect for you, your colourist will take into account these following factors:

Skin Tone, Porosity, Underlying Pigment, Previous Colour and % of Grey.

When it comes to box colour, there isn't a whole lot of difference between semi, demi and permanent colours. They say it will wash out in 10 washes........ but will it?? The only allowance for this would be a temporary colour. These colours just sit on the outside cuticle of your hair and depending on how light your hair is, it will only stain it.

When it comes to scalp bleaches and platinum blondes, application is essential. Over-laping of your colour may result in banding and more importantly BREAKAGE (yes i wrote that in bold, no one wants chewing gum hair.. it actually goes chewy). In this case if it comes as a bottle applicator.... don't do it! A brush and bowl application is the best way. 

There is a HUGE misconception when it come to colour, " Does colour damage my hair?".

When companies put their box colour on the market with a celebrity to endorse it ... the best they are doing is brainwashing everyone. I mean come on!!! There is no way J-Lo is sitting in her bathroom doing a D.I.Y. Bronde!! Clever advertising though.. It even had me thinking i could even do my hair at home ... no thanks, no need for a blue back and bathroom. The reason your hair is feeling like straw, is because you are moving further and further up the porosity scale. This means the damage of your hair is moving up and up to eventual chewing gum stage.

 Microscopic view of broken hair strand.

Microscopic view of broken hair strand.

Unfortunately for a colourist, when it comes to fixing this "beautiful" box colour, is the predictability of your hair, or lack of. We do wish however we did have magic wand, that would be amazing!! It is going to be a process, that will take a few sessions with your hairdresser. There could be so many different chemicals and pigments hiding in your hair strand and at different lengths. If you have made the mistake, don't be embarrassed however, we do love a challenge. Just be sure to be patient and be willing to upgrade your haircare routine. 

The skill of a great colourist, is that they can get you to your dream colour. They know when to push your hair and when they need to give it a break. Remember your hair, skin and nails are all made up of the same things. Your damaged hair is like your skin getting sunburn and nails after acrylics . They all take time to heal, but done the right way, you will never regret taking the time and getting to know your hairdresser along the way. We are actually quite cool!! 


BA xx





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